Wednesday, January 9, 2013

From Latin to Locavore

As good as our favorite haunt, Harvest, is, we're on a quest to try new restaurants - or at least restaurants that are new to us - this winter.

It's a stretch between Montauk and the next restaurant that's open in January, but there are two on Amagansett's main drag and since we were shuttling back and forth to movie theatres in East Hampton and Southampton this weekend, we tried both.

Indian Wells Tavern is kind of like O'Murphy's, except that it's not Irish and the hamburgers are half the size. It's got a long bar, flat screens, an affable wait staff and a large, all encompassing menu that runs the gamut from hamburgers to crab cakes. It seeks to serve many masters and does so adequately. D'Canela, which specializes in Mexican and Latin cuisine, is right next door. On Sunday night, everyone in the place but us was Latino, which is always a good sign. The hot (as in warm) salsa and chips are plentiful, the service attentive and the food, authentic and pretty good.

Both establishments are reasonable, and, if you ordered wine, both poured generously, which is remarkable only in that it is such a contrast to the many high end establishments in the Hamptons that give you a glass of wine - a phrase that is definitely open to interpretation out here - and nearly charge you for a bottle.


Last week, we tried the Old Stove Pub, which has been around forever, but is under new ownership and got a great review in the East Hampton Star, both for its food and ambiance. You can spend a lot of money at this restaurant, which is on Rt. 27 in Sagaponack, just east of Wolffer's Wine Stand. Steak and seafood entrees are $35 and up. But we were there for their Greek specialties, moussaka and pastitsio, and, at $18, they were a bargain and excellent. However, they did come out of the kitchen lukewarm, and, since we were one of only two tables taken, it's not like the chef was under duress.

Old house, Greek food
Old house, Tom Collichio
On our way in to the movies in Southampton a couple of weeks ago, we stopped to check out the menu at the newly-opened, highly anticipated, Tom Colicchio restaurant, Topping Rose, in Bridgehampton. It's on the site of the old Bull's Head Inn and, when complete, it'll be a luxury hotel and event space unlike any other the East End has to offer. For now, the restaurant is open, and it's exactly what you would expect of a 5-star establishment that "showcases produce from the inn's one-acre farm, in addition to other products from local farmers, ranchers and day-boat fishermen." So you'll know, for example, that your seafood came from Stuart's, and Amagansett Sea Salt supplied the, well, salt.

As for the menu, it goes like this: Burrata with Braised Zucchini, Lemon Thyme and Crispy Zucchini Blossoms; Roasted Saddle of Rabbit with Pickled Watermelon and Chanterelles; Creme Fraiche Panna Cotta with Black Mint, Cornmeal Streusel and Sugar Plum Sorbet. Well-crafted, seasonal American fare. But then, would you expect anything less of the man responsible for Craft, Craftbar, CraftSteak and 'Wichcraft?

We asked to see the dinner menu and after perusing that, asked to see the brunch menu. "Well," I said to Rick as we made our way back to the car, "we could have brunch. It could be our main meal," I added. "For the week, you mean." he said.




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