Louise & Clark, Part II

If there are so many deer in Montauk, I asked Rick as we were hiking Saturday, why is it we haven't seen one on these trails? "They're all in town," came the retort.

He's probably not far off the mark judging by the number of deer vs car accidents reported in the East Hampton Star every week. Actually, I was more concerned about running into the black snake, which grows up to 8' long and loves shad trees, of which there are plenty in the woods in Montauk.

However, since we didn't run into any wild animals, get irrevocably lost, dehydrate or starve on our hike Saturday, we decided to try our luck again Sunday on the trail blazed just last winter through Amsterdam Beach State Park, between Shadmoor and the Andy Warhol Preserve. Try as I might, I have not been able to find out how Amsterdam Beach got its name. But then, go figure why it is bounded on the east by Coconut Reef. I have yet to spot a native palm tree in Montauk.

The 2.25 mile hike through the Preserve winds its way through sun-dappled woods, punctuated by holly groves and glimpses of ocean through the brambles, to what is known as the Montauk Moorlands, a secluded stretch of coast that is indeed reminiscent of the English moors. All that's missing are Heathcliff, Cathy and the heather.

Before you can embark on the trail, however, you have to figure out where to park. When we picked up our trail map at the Chamber, they noted that the entrance to the trail was directly across from Deep Hollow Ranch and that there was a small parking area there. Which there is. However, unless you have a hunting permit, posted signs clearly state, you cannot park there. Seeking clarification, we went back to the Chamber. "Yes, the woman behind the desk commiserated, "parking is a problem in Montauk." She suggested we try the Police Station, but since it was closed at the time, we decided to throw caution to the wind and park alongside the two trucks that were there when we arrived, neither of which had hunting permits as far as we could determine. At least we were in the company of other lawbreakers.

Lots of shad, no snakes

While the trail through the Preserve is lovely, as these pictures attest, the big payoff comes at the end, with your first glimpse of Eothen, the estate currently owned by J. Crew CEO Mickey Drexler that was formerly owned by artist Andy Warhol and filmmaker Paul Morrissey.

Eothen as it might have looked early on. H/T Instagram.

A brief history...Originally a single seasonal fishing cottage built in 1905, Eothen (which is Greek for "from the east") was replaced with five white Colonial Revival-style cottages for Richard Church of the Arm & Hammer family, who had bought the land from Arthur Benson, who owned much of Montauk, in 1898. It didn't change hands until Warhol bought it in 1971 for $225,000. After Warhol's death, Morrissey sold it to Drexler in 2007 for $27 million, having steeply reduced the $50 million asking price.

In its heyday, dozens of American icons - Jackie O, the Rolling Stones, Liza Minelli, Liz Taylor among them - were summer guests at Eothen, the artistic center of Montauk in the '70s and '80s. In fact, Warhol's 1972 "Sunset" prints, below, (now featured on Bond No. 9 fragrance bottles) were said to be inspired by the view from Eothen.

Today, Eothen remains an imposing compound, reminiscent of New England in its stark, Hopperesque simplicity. And - thanks to the efforts of the trailblazers - easily accessible to any tourist of a mind. I imagine Mr. Drexler must be thrilled.

Views of Eothen today...